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Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Yeomiji Botanical Garden & Cheonjeyeon Waterfall

Day 8 of Quiring-family visit

On Thursday, July 5, our second day on Jeju-do, Jonathan and I thought it would be nice to head to the south to see a few attractions on the opposite side of the island from Jeju-si. We again walked to the nearby bus stop and took the city bus to the intercity bus station. We bought our tickets and a few snacks and then boarded our bus to Seogwipo-si, the southern city on the island. The bus trip was gorgeous as we drove up toward Hallasan (Halla Mt.) in the middle of the island, catching glimpses of the tallest mountain in South Korea along the way. As we drove closer to the mountain, the weather became kind of rainforest-like with mist turning into light rain as the bus whipped around corners in the curvy road. I thoroughly enjoyed the hour-long trip. All too soon we drove into Seogwipo and were dropped off near a taxi stand. Since we were five people, we had to get two taxis to get to our final destination, Yeomiji Botanical Garden. (The two-taxis dilemma haunted us our entire time in Jeju and only a couple times were we able to all squish into one, usually as a result of lots of pleading and bartering.) The botanical garden was huge and quite well put together. We enjoyed wandering in the cultural-themed outside gardens as well as through the large glass-enclosed pyramid-type structure that housed many different climates and environments for various types of plants.

Japanese Garden
Qs watching the koi fish
Ty trying out Ali's waterproof camera to catch the koi fish on video underwater

The results of the video
Don't know how Ty kept his hand in the water when the fish were bumping into the camera...
Ali going in for a picture
Q-clan on the bridge

Indoor Gardens (tropical, desert & others)
Jonathan's pose of the day
Elephant bushes
Yeomiji Botanical Garden logo and name made out of tiny pink and orange cacti (Photo by Glenda Quiring)

The Top of the Building
We climbed the stairs, but couldn't get into the room at the top of the building because the door was stuck.
My mum helped push the door open, but not before snapping this picture (apparently I can't spell backwards...).
(Photo by Glenda Quiring)
Glass rotunda in Jonathan's sunglasses
View from the top of the glass building
Resting and talking at the top of the building (Photo by Glenda Quiring)
Looking down to the lobby
Back at the bottom looking up to where we'd just come from

More Indoor Tropical Gardens
Does anyone else see a strange-looking fish in this flower?
Another shot of the weird fish-plant

Poisonous/Carnivorous Plants Garden

Korean Garden

Italian Garden
Break time in the Italian Gardens (Photo by Glenda Quiring)

After hours at the Yeomiji Botanical Gardens, having walked all over and taken many pictures, we had finally reached the last garden and were heading out to the parking lot when we saw a large bridge with white mythical-looking statues adorning the sides. "How do we get there?" I asked no one in particular and we searched around a bit to figure out how to get there. Most of our group was pretty tired from all the walking we'd done that day (and the day before), so when we finally found the entrance to the bridge only Jonathan and I paid the small admission fee to across and see what was beyond. We soon learned from sign boards that the trails on the other side led to three picturesque waterfalls (which I then realized I had read about in the guidebook), the Cheonjeyeon Waterfalls. Cheonjeyeon means Pond of the Emperor of Heaven and we also read on sign boards that the Seonim Bridge that we'd walked over to get to the waterfall trails had seven nymphs carved into both sides to symbolize the Korean legend of the descent of seven beautiful nymphs from heaven at night. Despite the humid mugginess, the falls were pretty and I was glad we went. When Jonathan and I got back to the rest of our group, we hailed two more taxis to take us to an interesting-sounding restaurant we had found in our guidebook and had a great supper. We were all tired as we waited for a bus back to Jeju-si as dusk turned to dark, but finally the right bus stopped and we wearily climbed aboard. An hour and a half later we were back in our hotel, ready to rest up for a new day of exploring.

Seven nymphs on the Seonim Bridge
Misty first fall of the three Cheonjeyeon Waterfalls
One of the other falls

Sunday, July 14, 2013

Seongsan Ilchulbong

Day 7 of Quiring-family visit

On the morning of Wednesday July 4, after a good sleep and some breakfast, our little group had to decide which attraction to see first on Jeju Island. Jonathan and I asked the hotel receptionist for directions to the nearest tourist information center, and easily found it a few intersections just down the street. There we were given maps and brochures of famous Jeju-do attractions. "Is it far to this place?" I asked, pointing in our guide book to the words Seongan Ilchulbong. "If you don't have a car," one of the helpers answered, "you have to get there by bus." We got directions to the intercity bus station and went back to the hotel to share what we'd learned. After talking over a few options, we decided to head to Seongsan Ilchulbong, a famous extinct volcano on the very eastern tip of the island. Off we walked down the street to the nearest city bus stop. Since we all had T-money cards, paying for our bus fare was as simple as scanning the small plastic tab as we entered the bus. We asked the driver to let us know when we reached the intercity bus station, and about five or ten minutes later we arrived, hopped off the bus, and went inside to buy tickets. Luckily for us, we were able to use our T-money cards to pay for the intercity bus tickets, too, which Jonathan and I hadn't ever been able to do on the mainland. That was surprising, but nice. After waiting for about 20 minutes, we boarded our bus and were off on our adventure.

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Posing with a Jeju 'grandfather' (Photo by Glenda Quiring)
Figuring out our bus route and buying tickets (Photo by Glenda Quiring)
Getting off the bus (Photo by Glenda Quiring)

The route was scenic and we all enjoyed watching the tropical landscape roll past. About an hour later we arrived at a stop our driver told us was our final destination. We got out, seeing the large green mountain a ways in front of us, and started to walk towards it. Later we realized that we could have stayed on the bus for another stop or two, but we were naive and had jumped off early. After a fair walk, we arrived at a little gazebo overlooking the ocean and near the entrance to get to the mountain. After a bite of oranges and some other food we had brought with us to refresh ourselves, we walked the rest of the short distance to the mountain. After paying admission, we asked another tourist to snap a couple pictures of the five of us. Then we started hiking up the paved sidewalk up the gradually sloping side of the mountain. Mum was still having some knee issues, so after going a good ways up the sidewalk - until stairs started to break up the pathway - she stopped at a bench overlooking the landscape and waited for the rest of us to continue our hike. Dad, Ty, Jonathan and I  kept hiking up, stopping often for rests, a drink of water, or to snap a picture of the scenic view below (our guidebook said the hike would take us about 20 minutes, but we stopped so often to take pictures that it took us probably about 40 instead). When we reached the top, we looked out over the ocean on one side of the dormant volcano and over the eastern side of Jeju Island on the other. It was very green and quite beautiful.
Seongsan Ilchulbong
Our group at Seongsan Ilchulbong (Photo from Glenda Quiring)
Another group photo
Tourists lining the pathway to the top of the mountain
The view from partway up
Interesting formations
Ty with his trusty film camera
Ali nearing the top
Almost there!
The green-filled crater at the top of the mountain
View from the top
Black sand beaches
Ali at the top
Jonathan at the top
We made it!
Can you spot Mum sitting on that bench?
We didn't plan to match - really!
Ty takes a shot
A small cave we found on the way back down
Ali in the cave
Dad at the end of the hike up the mountain (Photo by Glenda Quiring)

After the hike back down, we walked around the area below the mountain and then Jonathan and I continued walking out to an overlook with a good view of the mountain. We could also see a little fishing area and restaurant. In this fishing area, "haenyeo, older female free divers, go out to sea almost every day in all kinds of weather and use "low tech gear - polystyrene floats, flippers, nets, knives, and spears - to gather seaweed, shellfish, sea cucumbers, spiky black sea urchins, octopus, and anything else edible they can catch. ... They use no oxygen tanks, but are able to hold their breath underwater for up to two minutes and reach a depth of 20m. ... Haenyeo have been free diving for generations in the waters of Jeju-do and off the coast of Japan and China. Sadly, these will be the last generation of divers because their daughters have not followed in their mothers' flippers. ... At their peak in the 1950s there were almost 30,000 haenyeo on Jeju-do, but now they number fewer than 3,000" (Lonely Planet Korea guidebook). We had watched these ladies bringing in a catch earlier in the day while we were eating our lunch before we climbed the mountain, and it was interesting to see this fascinating livelihood in action. While we were out on the overlook, Jonathan and I spotted a mother cat with two kittens. They captured our attention for about 10 minutes while we watched the kittens frolic and play as the unconcerned mother placidly looked on.

Small fishing area and restaurant where the haenyeo bring their catch
Mother cat watching her kittens play

When we rejoined the rest of our group, we headed to a small Buddhist temple near the mountain for a look around the grounds and buildings. My parents and Tyler enjoyed their first look at a Buddhist temple, and although Jonathan and I had seen and taken pictures of quite a few Buddhist temples during our eight months in Korea, I think I enjoyed this small one possibly the most of all of them. It was just so still and serene compared to the bustle and jabbering of the tourists on the mountain just a few hundred yards away. Next we made a quick stop at the gift shop, and then headed back to the bus stop for the nice ride back to Jeju-si, all of us looking forward to relaxing in our hotel after our day filled with walking.

Not a clue what this statue is all about...
Back at the hotel relaxing...and maybe resting, too