Suwon's Hwaseong Fortress

Third-to-Last Day in South Korea

Tuesday, July 10, cont. (Read about how we got to Suwon here.)

After a couple hours of relaxation in our hostel room, we decided to go on a pre-dusk walk around the neighbourhood. We'd spied an interesting-looking trail to the top of a small mountain as we'd walked to our hostel after exiting the bus, and decided that would be a nice way to see the city before dark. Little did we know we would see much more of the city than we'd planned to by the time we returned to our hostel a few hours later...

We easily relocated the narrow paved road leading up the side of the mountain, and soon found that a stone staircase wandered between the road and a high stone wall. We climbed the stairs, stopping often to turn around and take in the view from higher and higher up the mountain, as well as snap pictures. A good 10 or 15 minutes of climbing brought us to the top where we found an entrance into the fortress. It was only then that I realized that we had been hiking along the Suwon Fortress, which I had heard about long before we arrived in Suwon.

Suwon's Hwaseong Fortress was built from 1794 to 1796 in preparation for the Korean capital city to be moved from Seoul to Suwon (which obviously didn't end up happening). "Located 30 kilometres (19 mi) south of Seoul and enclosing much of central Suwon, the Fortress includes King Jeongjo's palace Haenggung. The site was designated as a World Heritage site by the UNESCO in 1997. The Suwoncheon, the main stream in Suwon, flows through the centre of the fortress." - Wikipedia (Check there if you're interested in more history, including some sordid details.)

I was thrilled that we were able to see the fortress and encouraged Jonathan that we should continue walking along the wall. "I've heard there is a trail all the way along it," I said. "Maybe we can explore the whole way around." And so we did, not realizing that the perimeter of the fortress is 5.74 km (3.56 mi). Pre-dusk turned into dusk, which turned into evening, and then night, but we did eventually make it the entire way around the fortress walls. And I am so glad we did because the whole walk was pretty fascinating. After seeing the fortress, I was kicking myself that we hadn't come to Suwon earlier during our time in Korea to see the fortress and explore other interesting sights in the daylight. But I guess that just mean that we'll just have to go back someday... :)

Our starting point

Paldalmun - South Gate, under some construction

Plaque on the cobblestone street near the South Gate

Starting the hike up

Fancy lightpost

View of the southeastern part of the city from near the top of the first mountain we climbed

At the first guardhouse opening in the wall that we came to

We found a gigantic bell - Bell of Hyowon (You could pay to strike the Bell of Filial Piety)

Jonathan wanted to ring the bell, but it was after hours and the bell ringer (behind him) was locked.
We decided to come back in the morning when the bell was open for business again,
our last chance to ring one of these large bells before we left South Korea.

Seonodae watch tower

Seojangdae - A pavilion lookout into the heart of the old city

Suwon at dusk...

...and at night

City park and garden just outside the fortress walls

Hwaseomun - West Gate

In many other countries I might have been a bit nervous to walk along these trails at night, but not so in South Korea.
It's such a safe country, and there were many other people walking the trails and enjoying the warm summer evening.

Grand-looking watch tower - Seobuk Gongsimdon

Jonathan in the watch tower working to capture the picture below

Outside view of the grand North Gate - Janganmun

The other side of the North Gate after we walked through

Oh yep, and there's still more fortress to walk around...

The seven-arch style Hwahongmun Gate straddles the Suwoncheon (Suwon Stream)

Heron (we think) in the stream

Hwahongmun Pavilion just after the bridge

We stopped for a break in the pavilion and enjoyed listening to the Korean chatter of fellow walkers also resting there

Changnyongmun - East Gate

Bongdon chimneys

A large cathedral just outside the fortress walls

The path up the mountain where we'd started our hike a few hours earlier

The Sumun Gate over the Suwoncheon (Suwon Stream) on the other side of the fortress

Map of the Hwaseong Fortress and Suwon's old city - Click to view details (Courtesy of Wikimedia)

Just a few minutes after we crossed that last bridge we were back at our hostel and very ready to rest for the night. It had been a long walk, hiking up and down several small mountains and hills, but I was still glad we had been able to see and walk along the Suwon Hwaseong Fortress wall before we left Korea. Of all the places we visited during our eight months in Korea, I actually think the old city of Suwon inside the fortress was the most fascinating. I would love to visit again someday to see the area in the daylight and do more exploring!

Next up: ringing the Bell of Hyowon & our last day in South Korea